HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 

To keep this guide as easy-to use as possible, I have added links with which you can navigate between the index and the various sections within the blog.

INDEX: 

1. Introduction

2. Composting Basics: 

   2.1) Aerobic & Anaerobic 
   2.2) The Microbes 
   2.3) The Ratios: Carbon & Nitrogen & Moisture & Oxygen 

3. What can I compost? 

4. The importance of composting in Dry Climates 

5. The benefits of composting in Dry Climates 

   5.1) Increased fertility and nutrient cycling 
   5.2) Increased water holding capacity in the soil 
   5.3) Decreased pest and predator populations 
   5.4) Decreased risks and associated costs 

6. Composting challenges and solutions related to Dry Climates

   6.1) Lack of moisture 
   6.2) Lack of materials 
   6.3) Pests 

7. Different Composting Methods: 

   7.1) Trench Method 
   7.2) Traditional Compost Pile – Slow and Easy 
   7.3) Tumbler Bins
   7.4) Bokashi 
   7.5) Vermicomposting 
   7.6) Hot Composting – Berkely Method (18 Days) 
   7.7) Chicken Tractor Composting 
   7.8) Community Composting 
   7.9) Composting as a Service Business 

8. Choosing the composting methods that best suit your needs

9. Conclusion

1) Introduction:

The practice of compost making is a key to success for anyone attempting to establish a garden or a food production system in the desert or dry climate of our planet.  

A good quality compost will drastically improve both the fertility and water holding ability in our often-poor desert soils, whilst its production reduces some of our biggest waste streams (and its associated problems) – organic waste. 

Like many things in life, this is easier said than done, and our harsh desert climate provides its own set of challenges when it comes to the making of great compost. 

Therefore, I have taken it upon myself to write this guide with the hope of offering practical solutions to these challenges. 
This guide is written for anyone living, gardening and growing food within the dry climates, drylands and deserts of our earth. 

With the rapid increase of land degradation and desertification across the globe, ever increasing amounts of people find themselves within harsher and hotter conditions, and as such I do believe that this information would be very valuable to many, not only currently, but also in the future. 

Please Note: 

• This is a non-scientific and non-technical composting guide. 

• The information in this guide is based on the personal experience, education and research of the author. 

• The information is formulated specifically for the hot and dry climatic conditions of deserts and drylands. 

• This guide will be actively updated to stay as accurate, informative and complete as possible. 

2) Composting Basics: 

Organic material includes everything that is living, and that has lived in the past.

Decomposition is the cleanup process of nature; whereby dead organic material is broken down and cycled back into various forms of life. It is a critical part in the cycle of life.

Composting is what we as humans do when we facilitate and manipulate the decomposition process in ways that suit our needs and goals.

Compost is the material obtained through the composting process. 

2.1) Aerobic & Anaerobic

The main differentiation between composting methods is that of aerobic (with oxygen) and anaerobic (without oxygen) composting. 
As the availability of oxygen changes, so do the predominant microbes that thrive in that environment. This then also determines the chemical processes that occur. 
The resulting compost will therefore also have different properties and qualities.

For this guide, it is only important to be aware that these differences do exist, and to know that we can utilise this difference according to the type of compost you wish to create. This will be discussed in more detail later. 

2.2) Microbes

We can oversimplify our understanding of microbes and the job they do by thinking of them as scavengers of the soil. These scavengers eat and live off dead organic materials (both plant and animal based). Just like other living organisms, they convert their food into energy, use it for growth and reproduction, and excrete a more processed and simplified form of organic material at the end of their digestive and chemical processes. 

Therefore, we are essentially farming microbes, who then in turn create the compost we desire. 

To have a successful ‘microbe farm’ that provides us with compost, we need to provide them with a comfortable home, food and water. If we get this right, then they will do the rest. 

2.3) The Ratios: Carbon & Nitrogen & Moisture & Oxygen 

To start off with, I would like to encourage anybody who would like to get a deeper understanding of the chemistry involved in compost making, to read this short but detailed post titled ‘The Chemistry of Compost’, by the Cornell University. 

Understanding the ‘why’s’ and ‘how’s’ of the Carbon/Nitrogen ratios is the most complex aspect of compost making, but once you do, the whole process becomes quite easy, and with some practice it will all just be second nature to you. 

Now, let's look at it in a non-scientific way. 

When making compost, we essentially provide the right living conditions for specific microorganisms to thrive, and in doing so, they work on ‘making the compost’ for us. 

Like most land-based living organisms, water and oxygen are an essential part of life, and the same is true for these microorganisms. This is easy to understand, and as such we will only discuss this in further detail in other sections of this guide. 

Let’s focus on the C/N (carbon/nitrogen) ratio. Both are critical elements that make up and sustain the life of microorganisms, and without either of them, they will not exist. 

Every compostable material consists of and contains a certain ratio of both carbon and nitrogen.

Carbon:

Carbon is most abundant in organic materials generally referred to as brown materials. These consist of things such as various forms of wood, cardboard, paper, reeds, dried leaves, etc. 

Characteristically, these are materials that do not spoil, rot or otherwise ‘go bad’ in a short period of time (days or weeks). They are very stable, and if left dry, they maintain their structure very well over time. 

A second characteristic is that carbon rich materials generally do not have a very strong, pungent or overwhelming smell. Their smell could be better described as mild, soft or neutral. 

Nitrogen:

Nitrogen on the other hand is most abundant in organic materials referred to as green materials, and these consist of things such as food scraps, freshly cut green vegetation, meats, blood, urine, manures, etc. 

They can be easily identified by opposing characteristics compared to carbon rich materials. They tend to contain moisture. They change structure in a short period of time, either by drying out, or by rotting, spoiling and ‘going bad’. 

Strong and often pungent smells are often a good indicator of high levels of nitrogen in a material. 

To achieve a C/N ratio that promotes good microbial life, we will mix both brown and green materials together, however, the amount of each material we add will vary on their individual C/N level. 
Another factor that influences the amounts of individual materials we add to the compost is their form, structure and size. The smaller the individual pieces of a material are, the bigger the total surface area becomes. As such, that material will be more accessible to the microbes. 

As mentioned in the compost chemistry article linked at the start of this section, we aim for a C/N ratio of 30:1. 
This can be roughly calculated by looking up the average C/N ratios of the specific materials you have available, and then from that you can determine how much of each to add to your compost. 

Here is a less technical way: 

The general rule of thumb is to mix 3 parts brown with 1 part green to start off with. 

Then, depending on what happens, we can adjust the ratio by adding either more brown or green materials. 

If your compost becomes very hot or if it smells bad, it may be a sign that you have too many greens in the mix. Fix it by adding browns. (These symptoms can also be caused by a lack of oxygen, for which you would need to aerate the pile by turning it. More on this in the troubleshooting section). 

If your compost seems to stay inactive, you may have a lack of green material (or a lack of volume or moisture, but more on this in the troubleshooting section). 
 
As you start experimenting with the resources and materials you have available for your compost, you will soon get a good feel for how much brown and green material you should add to achieve the desired results. 

The C/N ratio is often confusing for most people new to compost making, but in reality, it is not all that complicated.
Just keep in mind that a successful compost will require the right amounts of carbon, nitrogen, water (moisture) and oxygen. Once you get this mix right, you will be successfully making compost. 

3) What can I compost? 

The basic rule of thumb is this: 
‘If it has lived before, it can live again.’ 

Anything that that can be considered organic material can be composted, just like nature decomposes everything that has died. 
That being said, different composting methods will be more adequate at composting certain things than others. We will discuss this further as we look at the different composting options below in the next chapter. 

Here are a few useful guidelines to remember: 

• Most desert soils are alkaline, and as such it is recommended not to add ash to your compost as you would in other climates. This would increase the PH of your soil even more and will be harmful to plants. 

• The more varied your materials are that you plan to compost, the richer the compost will be. 

• Avoid trying to compost anything that has been polluted with chemicals or any other hazardous and environmentally damaging products. 

• Remember to keep the right balance between carbon and nitrogen and ensure that adequate moisture levels are always present. 

• Whenever starting a now compost, it is helpful to add a few handfuls of finished compost, as this will give the new system a healthy dose of active microbial activity right from the start. 

• Compost should not smell bad. If it does, something has gone wrong. If it does go wrong, which it will sometimes, then chances are good that it is easy to fix. 

• Composting is easier than it sounds, so keep it simple and have fun. 

4) The importance of composting in Dry Climates 

As we have established above, one essential ‘ingredient’ to the decomposition process is adequate moisture. 
Due to the lack of moisture in dry climates, decomposition happens either very slowly, or not at all. This results in dry organic materials, which are physically broken down and dispersed by other elemental factors. 

The human population of an area naturally brings an increase in organic materials. These are often imported from other regions of the world due to a lack of local availability.  

If we treat this material as a waste product or garbage, then it will break down in the slow and inefficient method described above. 
This increase of organic materials has adverse effects, and one of the problems includes an increase in local ‘pest’ populations who, ironically, are actively taking part in the decomposition process and dealing with this man-made problem. As the pest population increases, so do their predators. Now we have an increase in waste, rats, mice, snakes, etc. 
Another problem is the buildup in dry organic materials and the associated fire risk. 
We can also accredit additional health risks, infrastructure demands, and financial costs to this ‘waste stream’. 

5) The benefits of composting in Dry Climates  

Composting the organic ‘waste’ resources that build up in our settlements in the dry climatic areas of the world will have numerous beneficial consequences. 
Here is a list of the main benefits of composting relating to dry climates: 

5.1) Increased fertility and nutrient cycling 

Large amounts of resources and energy are spent on the importation and consumption of organic materials. These consist of foods, plants, and natural building materials and fibers that make up everyday items such as paper, clothing, etc.  
Once they have fulfilled our human needs, they can all be composted locally into a valuable and nutrient dense compost. That compost is extremely beneficial in increasing the local soil fertility. Over time, this equates to increased local production capabilities, reducing the need for imported organic materials such as food and natural building supplies. An entire book can (or probably has already been) written regarding this one benefit. 

5.2) Increased water holding capacity in the soil 

As we increase the organic matter in the soil, we simultaneously increase the amount of water that can be stored within that soil. Due to the physical properties of organic materials, and the presence of the microbes that live within them, soil becomes better suited to collect and hold on to moisture, making it available for the living soil organisms as well as the plants and animals that depend on it. 
 
It is estimated that for each 1 percent increase of soil organic matter, an additional 20 000 gallons of water can be stored per acre. 
That is almost 200 000 liters per hectare for those of us working with the metric system. 
 
This is a very significant amount, especially in dry climates where water is a valuable resource. 

5.3) Decreased pest and predator populations 

When organic materials are composted with increased efficiency, less organic material is available in a form that feeds larger decomposers such as rodents, roaches and bugs; or what we would commonly refer to as pests. As their food supply shrinks, so do their populations. This has the same impact on their natural predator populations. 

This results in population levels closer to those that would naturally exist in the local area, and as such they would present less of a problem in our desert settlements. 

5.4) Decreased risks and associated costs 

According to data from various studies found online, processing our organic resources into fertile compost eliminates anywhere between 40 and 90 percent of the waste generated by the average household. 
Health, fire and pollution risks associated with this waste would be reduced accordingly. 

The financial benefits would include lower infrastructure and maintenance costs, both for the import of organic goods, as well as in the processing of the waste materials thereof.

6) Composting challenges and solutions related to Dry Climates 

There are three main challenges faced when attempting to compost in dry climates. 

6.1) Lack of moisture 

Firstly, and by far the biggest challenge we face when composting in dry climates is the lack of moisture. Due to the predominantly low humidity levels in the general surroundings, any moisture added to the compost quickly evaporates, and without adequate moisture, decomposition slows down or even stops completely. Those microbes need water, just as much as we do. 
 
Here are a few steps we can take to overcome this: 

• Soak all the dry materials prior to adding them to your compost. This will ensure that everything is moist from the start, and that there are no dry materials in the mix that will absorb moisture from the rest of it. 

• Trap the moisture any way you can. Some people use containers, others prefer plastic tarps or thick layers of mulch. Anything that prevents the rapid loss of moisture will do. One important thing to keep in mind is that your aerobic compost will still need to get an adequate supply of oxygen and allow for the exchange of gases, so do not seal them entirely. 

• Keep your compost in a well shaded location to prevent access heat and evaporation. Some of the systems described later are suitable for indoor setup, making humidity control very easy. 

• Check on your compost regularly and add extra water as needed. To make this process simple and efficient, many choose to have their compost in areas that get watered regularly anyway, thereby reducing the extra effort and the risk of forgetting about it. Some go as far as running a simple drip irrigation line over their compost pile allowing for easy watering. 

What is the correct moisture for your compost? 

The common advice is that your compost should be as moist as a wrung-out sponge. 
Another method used quite often is to grab a handful of compost and squeeze it in your hand. If a single drop of water comes out, it is perfect. Any less than that means it is too dry. Any more would indicate that your compost is too wet. More on this in the troubleshooting section. 

Another consideration to keep in mind when setting up your composting system in a dry climate is to make sure that it is protected from potential flooding or washing-away during the rare but harsh rain events that do occur occasionally in this climate. Keep it covered to prevent it from getting too wet. Some people choose to make compost in holes in the ground, but this should only be done where those holes will not get flooded during a rain event. 

6.2) Lack of materials 

The second challenge is the seeming lack of compostable carbon (browns) and nitrogen (greens) resources. This is mostly true in areas with very low population densities. In this case, consider using composting systems that do not require large amounts of organic inputs. 

In most settlement areas that consist of at least a few households, sufficient materials can be found once you know what to look for. Generally, there will be enough garden waste, food waste, herbivore manure and other organic materials available to maintain the average household composting system. This is an opportunity to get creative. 
Commercial kitchens such as those in restaurants, coffeeshops, hotels and schools often have a lot of compostables available. So do companies that provide gardening and landscaping services. Supermarkets. Offices. The list is long. 

6.3) Pests 

Pests are the third most common challenge faced by composters in desert landscapes where food is scarce, and every living thing wants its fair share of it. But before we discuss possible solutions regarding these creatures, it is important to understand their purpose in and around our compost. Why are they there? 
 
In dry climates, the lack of moisture in most places means that there is a lack of microbes, who depend on moisture to live. Therefore, somebody else needs to fill their role in the decomposition process. That’s the reason why larger creatures such as mice, rats, bugs and roaches exist. They can travel further between water sources and find food along the way. They feed on dead (sometimes even dying) organic materials and help break them down with the help of the microbes living in their guts. 
Because of their size, they can ‘process’ these organic materials much faster than the little microbes in the soil can (if there are any, then they are commonly found in smaller numbers due to the moisture issue).  
Therefore, they assist in the extremely important job of decomposition, and as such are of great benefit to the natural processes. 

The fact is however that a lot of us do not ‘like having these so-called pests around’, and since we are taking proactive steps to make compost in a system that is beneficial to the soil microbes, it is perfectly ok to make compost in a way that does not include these pests. 

So here are a few solutions: 

• Keep the composting system of your choice further away from your living area. That way you still have the benefit of having them in the pile and helping to break it down, but they are more likely to stay away from your home (and that of your Neighbour's). 

• Make your composting system physically pest proof. Depending on the type of pest that frequents your selected composting system, you could make it so that they can no longer access it and will therefore lose interest. This could be anything from wire mesh to keep stary dogs and rodents out, to containers that have very small ventilation holes but are otherwise completely sealed. Depending on the composting system, or combination of systems, you choose to use this will be either very easy to do or rather tricky. 

• Smaller materials decompose much faster, and as such provide less opportunity for pests to discover them. Chopping up food scraps into sizes that are less appealing to pests and break down faster helps a lot. A blender comes in handy for this but be careful not to turn it into a liquid, as oxygen will not be able to get in and your aerobic system may turn anaerobic. 

• Many people choose to pre-compost their materials in pest-proof systems, often indoors, before adding it to the pile outside. That way the materials are no longer appealing to the pests. More on this in the chapter on how to select a composting system suitable for your needs. 

• Lastly, now that you know what the purpose of a ‘pest’ is, it will be easier to view them as an ally, working with you on the compost making process, rather than an enemy that needs to be excluded or eradicated. We all have our place.  

7) Different Composting Methods: 

In this section we will discuss a few of the composting methods that are well suited for our dry desert conditions. 
Each system has a basic explanation of how it works, in which we will look at the set-up and management requirements of that specific system. 
For some of the systems we will also include a link to an in-depth guide for anyone considering utilising that specific composting system. 

7.1) Trench Method

This is an outdoor system. 
It is suitable for processing small amounts of organic waste (for example: kitchen scraps of a single-family home). 

The trench method is possibly the most basic and low maintenance form of compost making we could utilise in the desert. It would suit anyone who has a garden or access to an outside space. 
 
The ideal location for trench composting would be along the shaded edges of existing garden beds, as these will most likely already have a consistent supply of moisture through an irrigation system or regular watering by a gardener. Being shaded would greatly assist in keeping the soil temperatures down for the benefit of the soil microbes. 

How to set up a trench composting system: 

• Start the trench composting system by digging a shallow hole about 15 to 20 cm (about 5 to 7 inches) deep. 

• If you already have healthy and rich soil, it will already contain abundant soil life to aid in the decomposition process. Here you can simply dump your chopped up food scraps or other organic wastes into the start of your trench. 

• If your soil is of poor quality, as is the case in most desert and dryland areas, then adding in a healthy dose of finished compost will help to get the process started. You can either mix this compost into your compostable materials, or just add a layer of compost, about 5cm (about 2 in), in the bottom of the trench, and then add your kitchen scraps and organic waste onto it. 

• Cover it up with a thin layer of soil or compost to prevent any pests from getting to the fresh materials. Remember that the microbes need oxygen, so do not compact it. 

• If the soil is very dry, add some water to the area so that it is moist enough for the soil life to exist and to be able to do their work. 

• Lastly, cover the area with a thick layer of mulch to help maintain the moisture in the soil and to help with the regulation of soil temperature. 

• When your next batch of kitchen scraps or other materials is ready to be composted, simply extend your trench and repeat this process. To do so, it is helpful to place a marker at the end of your trench so that it is easy to locate. 

In this system, your food scraps should be fully decomposed within a few months at most, given that the moisture levels are maintained, and the temperature is controlled in the methods described above. 

7.2) Traditional Compost Pile – Slow and Easy 

This is an outdoor system. 
It is suitable for processing variable amounts of organic material and can be scaled up or down as necessary. 

This is a classic, and probably the first method that comes to mind when we hear the word compost. In its simplest form, it is a pile of organic material to which we simply keep adding anything organic we have available, when we have it available.  
It is usually left for at least a year and requires minimal maintenance. 
‘Easy’ and ‘lazy’ come to mind when we think about this system. ‘Efficient’ not so much. 

The basics of a successful cold composting pile: 

• As this is a long-term composting system, it is important to choose its location wisely. Pick a shady and protected spot in your yard/garden, ideally just out of the way of day-to-day activities, but close enough for practical and easy access.  
  This location should have easy access to water for the maintenance of moisture within the pile. 
  Some people might find this system to be visually unappealing, and as such it could be wise to ‘hide’ it behind some sort of visual barrier. 

• Next you can construct a ‘bin’ type structure to hold the materials. This bin would ideally be about 1 cubic meter (3ft x 3ft x 3ft) in size, and open to the soil below for drainage of access liquids and to allow the microbes to migrate freely between the pile and the soil. 
  Having the bin is not essential but depending on the design and materials used in its construction, it can aid in keeping the area organized, excluding unwanted pests and maintaining moisture and temperature levels. 

• Alternatively, you could just start the pile straight on the ground. If you choose this option, you will likely have to find alternative ways of dealing with the abovementioned challenges though. 

• The next step is to start adding your materials to the bin. Try to keep the ratios between brown and green materials somewhat in an ideal balance, but it is not essential. At a minimum, you would need to ensure that you have a higher level of carbon rich materials than what the 30:1 ratio suggests. 
  Having too many greens in the system will result in a rotting, smelling, and often anaerobic pile. This would cause a lot of unpleasantries and problems, so avoid this at all costs. 

• After adding materials to the pile, make sure that the moisture levels are good. When adding dry materials, it is wise to soak them first. 

• To prevent access loss of moisture, cover the pile with a thick layer of mulch, palm fronts, cardboard, tarps, etc. Anything that will keep the moisture in, whilst still allowing for some air circulation. 
  When adding new materials to the pile, partially remove this cover and add the materials below it. Then cover it back up. 

• Once your first bin is full, start a second one. This will allow the first one the time to fully compost down. Two bins are sufficient for most households with the average garden, but should you have more organic waste, then you can simply extend the system with more bins or piles. 

This is a very slow and passive composting method, and it will take over a year to complete the process. To speed it a little, you could turn the pile from time to time. Most people choose not to, and that is fine. As with any other composting system in the desert, pay special attention to the moisture levels in your system, and do not let it dry out. 

7.3) TUMBLER BINS

Tumbler bins can be used outdoors or indoors. In this case, indoors refers to a garage or garden shed, not inside the house. 

They are a suitable option for composting general organic household waste and small/limited amounts of garden waste. The limiting factor of a tumbler bin is its size. 

A tumbler bin is best used as a part of a larger composting system. In such a system, the tumbler is used to pre-compost fresh materials (ideally indoors), before they are then moved on to an outdoor system where the composting process is then completed. 
This is particularly useful in areas with high pest pressure. In this way, the fresh materials are kept out of reach of pests until they decompose enough to no longer be of interest as a food source to them. 

How to use a Tumbler Composting Bin: 

• Like other composting systems, try to maintain an optimal C/N ratio, moisture levels and moderate temperatures. Since these are generally rather small systems, this can be easily achieved, especially when the tumbler bin is kept in an indoor space, out of the influence of environmental factors. If an indoor space is not an option, a shaded and protected area outside will do. 

• It is likely that you will experience a buildup of moisture and liquid within the bin, as they do not have drainage. When this happens, adding absorbent and carbon rich materials such as saw dust or shredded cardboard will help. 

• Since these are enclosed systems, it is advisable to add about a bucket of finished compost to the bin, as this will contain plenty of microbes to start the composting process. 

• Do not overfill the tumbler, as they do become difficult to turn, and may even get damaged. 

• Once the bin gets full, leave it for at least a week between the last addition of materials to the day that you empty it. This allows for the freshest materials to break down sufficiently before taking them outdoors. In the meantime, freezing any additional food scraps is an easy way to ‘keep them’ until you can reset the tumbler bin. By doing so, you avoid having to buy two of them. 

• Although these bins are theoretically pest proof, I have seen some in gardens that did indeed have bugs and roaches in them. Therefore, I would suggest making sure that you get a good quality one. 

Whilst it is theoretically possible to make finished compost in a tumbler bin, it is very impractical, especially if you have only one of them. 
As such we believe they are best used in the method described above.

7.4) Bokashi 

Bokashi is a fermentation-based pre-composting system relying on an anaerobic environment. It is most often used indoors, where bokashi bins are kept under the kitchen sink or in the garage. 
Bokashi is suitable for pre-composting kitchen scraps, including meat and bones. This makes it an interesting option for composting systems in small spaces and for ‘processing’ animal-based products without the pests and health problems associated with some other systems.  

Here is how it works: 

• For this method, you will need a set of at least two bokashi bins. These are special containers designed to create the anaerobic environment that is critical for this system to function properly. They also have drainage features built in to drain off access liquids.  

• You will also need bokashi bran, which is a carbon rich material inoculated with special microbes who are bread for this process. Both the bokashi bins and the bran can be homemade or purchased. 

• To start the bokashi system, put a thin layer of bokashi bran in the bottom of the bin, and then start adding your organic materials. Make sure that with each new addition of organic material you add a good amount of bokashi bran, as this helps to spread the microbes throughout all the material, and in doing so efficiently processing it. Just as in other composting methods, smaller pieces break down faster than bigger ones. 

• Always keep it sealed and airtight, except for those moments when you are adding new materials, and weigh down the materials to exclude as much oxygen as possible. In this system we do not want oxygen. 

• Throughout the entire process, it is important to drain off any access liquids on a regular basis (daily). This ‘bokashi tea’ is a great fertilizer for plants. It is also useful as a drain cleaner. 

• Once the bin is full, close it up and keep it airtight for a minimum of two weeks. Longer periods are good. In the meantime, start filling up the second bin. 

• After the minimum 2-week period has passed, the contents will have sufficiently fermented. Although the materials will still look mostly the same, their internal structures will have been greatly changed through the fermentation process. 
  At this stage, the materials inside the bokashi bin will break down very quickly once buried in garden beds or added to other composting systems for completion of the composting process. Many claim that this material is great for adding to vermicomposting systems. 

Whilst this fermentation of materials is a great system, do keep in mind that whilst the bins are open and materials are being worked with, that it will smell. Some do not mind this ‘pickled’ smell, whilst others do struggle with it. Due to the airtight design of the containers, the smell is no issue whilst the bins are closed, and as such many people keep them in their kitchens for easy access and maintenance.

7.5) Vermicomposting

I wrote a complete guide on vermicomposting in the desert here. 

Vermicomposting systems can be adapted for indoor and outdoor use. 
Here we rely on the work of compost worms (not earth worms) to break down our organic matter for us. To achieve this, we provide them with a suitable habitat, and keep feeding them our materials. In return, we get highly fertile ‘worm tea’ and ‘worm castings’ both of which are great for healthy soil life and fertilising our plants. 

The basics: 

• The ideal habitat for the worms maintains humidity well, whilst allowing access liquids (worm tea) to drain out and maintain aerobic conditions with sufficient gaseous exchange. These can be anything from custom bins, bags, boxes, all made to suit their particular use either indoors or outdoors and below ground or above ground.  

• Once you have your worm bin set up in an ideal location, you will then proceed to add a thick layer of bedding material into it. This is where the worms will live, and it serves as a backup food source in the case that fresh food is not available, or available only in small quantities. In the end all these materials will be processed into worm castings. 
  Make sure that the bedding material is moist, but not waterlogged. 

• Now add the worms, and it is ready to start adding your kitchen scraps or other organic materials on top. Do not bury these under the bedding material. 

• Keep adding organic materials as they are available. Remember that smaller pieces will be processed faster than larger ones. 
  Make sure that the temperature, humidity and airflow always stay at the levels that make for a healthy worm habitat. 

• Once the worm bin gets full, you will harvest the worm castings and re-set the system. This happens about once every 3 months, but it will depend on your system and the amount of organic material you are processing. 

Vermicomposting is a very versatile system and is very adaptable to our desert climates. Within just a few months, worm populations will self-adjust to feeding quantities, and as long as me maintain a good living environment for them (which is quite easy to do compared to many other systems), they will keep providing us with a constant flow of highly fertile worm tea and castings. 
 
This is a very short and oversimplified explanation, and I do go into a lot more detail in the vermicomposting in the desert guide.

7.6) Hot Composting – Berkely Method (18 Days)

This Is an outdoor system, and it requires quite intensive management over a short period of time (18 days if done correctly). 
It is a brilliant system for converting larger quantities of organic materials into a high quality, biologically active and ‘clean’ (no seeds or harmful pollutants) compost. 
To ensure a successful hot compost, you will need to have all the materials ready when starting the pile, and then maintain the right C/N ratios and humidity levels. It will require regular turning of the entire pile every other day and monitoring of the temperature within it. 

Here is a short explanation of the system: 

• You will need the following ingredients in roughly a 1:1:1 ratio: 
  Brown Materials 
  Green Materials 
  Manure (ideally cow or horse, but chicken can work in smaller quantities) 

• In a shaded place, assemble a pile of 1m diameter, by layering the materials in thin layers. Aim for a height of 1.5m, whilst keeping the sides as vertical as possible. Make sure you add adequate moisture as you build the pile. 

• Cover it with a tarp to maintain moisture. Monitor the internal temperature of the pile over the next few days. After about 4 days, it should have a temperature between 55 and 65 degrees Celsius. 

• Once it gets to this temperature, it is time to turn the pile in such a way that the cooler materials from the outside of the pile are now on the inside. 

• Now, turn the pile every two days, whilst constantly monitoring the temperature. It should maintain the temperature between 55 to 65 degrees Celsius untill about day 10, and then slowly start to cool back down to ambient temperature on day 18. At this stage the compost is done. 

For more information, see this video by Geoff Lawton explaining the entire process and how to troubleshoot it if things go wrong.

7.7) Chicken Tractor Composting

This is an outdoor system, and it utilizes the help of chickens. As such, it is only applicable to those who either have or are planning to have chickens. 
It is a relatively easy system to maintain, and a great way to establish a constant flow of fresh, good quality compost. 
 
Here is how: 

• Set up this system within your chicken coop, in a shaded spot. 

• You will use the chicken bedding material (eg: straw) from under their roost, where it has collected and mixed with chicken manure over about a week. This is your brown material. 
  To this you will add your green materials, by layering thin layers of brown and green materials. The pile should have a diameter of 1m and be 1.5m tall. Make sure it has adequate moisture. 

• Over the next week, the chickens will scratch through the pile and scatter the materials. Therefore, once a week, you will go and pile all the materials back up. This makes the turning process very easy and saves quite a bit of time. 

• After 4 weeks, your compost is sufficiently processed and ready to be sifted and taken to the garden. 

• For a weekly supply of 1 cubic meter of compost, simply start a new pile each week, whilst reassembling the ones from the previous weeks. This way you will always have 4 piles in the chicken coop. The chickens will love it, as it adds a lot of nutrition to their diets, and keeps them busy doing what they do best, all whilst reducing your own workload. 

This is the exact system (combined with rabbits) used at the famous ‘Greening the Desert’ Permaculture Demonstration Site in the Dead Sea Valley, Jordan. See their system here.

7.8) Community Composting

Community Composting is a larger scale system. It is beneficial in situations where a group of individuals may not have the required space, time or volumes of organic materials to maintain their own composting systems. 
It also creates a stronger sense of community and promotes co-operation. 
 
To be successful, such a system needs to be organised. 

You will need a space where the system, or combination of systems, can be set up. This space should be easy to access for all the members, and conveniently located. Make sure that the chosen location has all the legal rights to establish such a system if needed. 

Next, establish a set of rules everyone will abide by to keep everything functioning in an orderly fashion. Make sure that the rules are easy to understand and follow. The simpler the system, the smaller the likelihood of anything going wrong. 

Decide on a management system. Will there be certain people responsible for the maintenance and operation of the facility, or will everyone participate on a voluntary basis according to a pre-determined schedule? This can be extremely flexible and will vary according to the needs of each individual community. 

Also, decide what will happen with the compost made here? Will it be fairly distributed between members? Will it be used in a community garden, or will it be sold? 

Organize a training and opening event where the system is explained in detail to all the members, to ensure that everyone knows how it all works. 
 
Start composting. 
 
Monitor the system and make sure it all functions. Tweak any aspects of it when problems arise. 
 
Community composting systems can be incredibly fun and rewarding to the members involved and has a lot of social benefits. 

7.9) Composting as a Service Business 

As with most other things, there will always be those who choose to pay someone to do the work for them, and this is where a composting service may be the right choice for some. 
These businesses have been increasing in many places around the world. 
 
Customers will typically sign up to the composting service on subscription basis for a fee, and in return their organic waste will be collected on a regular basis by the company. 
 
The company then does all the composting, and then sells that compost as a product. 

Not only is this a great service for those who choose to compost their waste in such a way, but it also generates business opportunities and jobs within the community, whilst cycling waste into valuable products for the local market. Win-Win. 

8) Choosing the composting methods that best suit your needs 

Now that we have covered this variety of composting methods applicable to our dryland environments, you should be able to make an informed decision as to which of them are applicable to your context and needs. 
 
If you are planning to set up a garden and provide a big boost in soil fertility in a relatively short time, the hot composting method could be a great way to get that done in just a few weeks, given that you have access to the required amounts off organic materials. 
 
If you are living in an area on a seasonal basis, the ability to start and stop your composting without a hassle may be important to you, and as such you may prefer to make use of a more traditional cold composting system, or you may join a community composting group or sign up for the service of a composting company. 
 
For those with limited outdoor space, vermicomposting or bokashi systems could be ideal solution, as they are easy to maintain indoors and provide a constant supply of liquid fertilizer. 
 
Perhaps you have the space and time and decide to take your composting to the next level? In this case you could facilitate a community composting group or start a composting service business in your local neighborhood. 
 
With all the different systems listed above, there really are enough options for everyone's circumstances. Once you have determined your composting goals and set your commitment level in terms of time, energy space and financial resources you wish to invest, it will be quite simple to select the right system (or set of systems) for your needs. 

9) Conclusion 

I hope that you find this guide helpful and informative. 

As this is such a massive topic with a lot of nuances and context specific differences, it is simply impossible to cover all the details in one post. As such, I would like to encourage everyone to continue this conversation in the comments below. 
Any questions, personal insights or experiences or system ideas are more than welcome and would greatly add to this resource for future readers and composters. Over time, I will update and improve on the details within this post, with the intention of making it increasingly complete and all inclusive. 
I will also add future posts regarding the individual systems and dive into much more detail there. The goal is to provide all the necessary information to choose the right system for your context, and then to have access to all of the information required to successfully implement and maintain your selected system.

Happy Composting!

Thank you for your time and see you in the next one.